Monday, April 25, 2016

Choosing Olive Oil: 5 Tips from the Italians

Given recent media scandals exposing dishonest olive oil brokers, it has never been more difficult for non-professionals to determine which the good from the bad when it comes to EVOO. I get asked more questions about olive oil in my lectures, cooking classes, media interviews and social media posts than any other topic. Many people simply give up and turn to other oils because they don't have time to sort through the conflicting data and study up on the subject. But there are good reasons to familiarize ourselves on how to select good-quality oil and the benefits of using it.

In addition to its great flavor, honest olive oil provides such amazing health benefits that the claims are too many to list. Since olive oil is one of the ingredients that is enjoyed in the entire Mediterranean region, and it is available abroad and easy to study, it is an ingredient that researchers use to determine the efficacy of The Mediterranean Diet. When I was researching the latest health claims regarding the eating and lifestyle plan for The Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook, I found so many positive studies related to olive oil, that my editors had to ask me to omit more than half of them from the book, because it was disproportionate to the research on other ingredients.

According to Professor Francisco Grande Covián “….The lowest rates of death from coronary disease are currently recorded in countries where olive oil is virtually the only fat consumed.”


Some of my research on the topic includes:


  • Angina, heart attack, strokes and sudden cardiac death are caused by concentrated cholesterol deposits on artery walls. When the deposits burst, they cause blood clots which in turn, cause tissues or organs to die. Olive oil has been proven to prevent the formation of blood clots and lower the levels of total blood cholesterol, which is believed to be responsible for the low incidence of heart problems in countries where olive oil is the main cooking fat.
  • The antioxidant properties of olive oil are one of its greatest virtues. It’s important to note, however that the amount of antioxidants in olive oils varies according to the climate where they are raised, when the olives are harvested, how ripe they are when they are picked, and how the oil is produced and stored. Antioxidants are important in the prevention of aging. Oxidation itself refers to the complex manner in which cells age. Cells in those following olive oil rich diets have been proven to be stronger and more resistant to oxidation, therefore ageing more slowly. The antioxidants found in olive oil are Vitamin E, carotenoids, and phenols such as hydroxytyrosol (known for its anti-inflammatory properties) and oleuropein (known for producing anti-bacterial effects).
  • Epidemiological studies believe that olive oil is capable of protecting against malignant tumors in various places in the body and reduces the risk of breast, colon, and bowel cancer. Squalene, a natural 30-carbon organic compound found in olives ….is believed to reduce the incidence of melanomas, malignant tumors associated with skin cancer.
  • The primary function of the immune system is to defend the body against the negative effects of toxins, microorganisms, parasites, and other foreign substances. Olive oil has been shown to boost the immune system against the negative effects of foreign substances.
  • Olive-oil-rich diets may prevent memory loss in healthy elderly people. A study showed a reduced risk of suffering age-related cognitive decline. The quantity of olive oil consumed was inversely proportional to age-related cognitive decline and memory loss, dementia and Alzheimer's disease.



This year I have had the good fortune to travel to Italy twice on behalf of UNAPROL, the Italian consortium for olive oil producers. I learned a great deal about olive oil after attending panel discussions, guided tastings, media interviews with the growers and social events. At one conference, held at Hadrian's Temple in Rome, we were able to learn everything from the government's role in monitoring labeling, to the sacred symbolism of the olive by a representative of the Vatican,  and the importance of introducing children to olive oil in the school setting.  



I came away from the events feeling extremely optimistic about the future of olive oil - and the benefits of using it. It was empowering to be able to learn to read labels and to gain the knowledge to properly "taste" olive oil. Last week I participated in The Mediterranean Diet Roundtable in Beverly Hills, and was able to share some of my knowledge there as well.  It has become one of my main missions to pass these tips on. I am fortunate that in just a few weeks I have been able to share one of my passions with my students, readers, and viewers. So, here's a quick guide of what to be aware when selecting EVOO:


1. The Term Extra Virgin is about Acidity - By definition, "extra-virgin" olive oil, has to have an acidity rate of .8 or less. The lower the acidity rate, the higher the quality. Italian olive oil quality is denoted by the following Geographic Indicators: 

Olive Oil Labels

DOP Olive Oil: Meets tough standards, such as limits on acidity levels and storage time of olives before processing; about 30 Italian olive oils have the DOP label.

IGP Olive Oil: Meets the basic standards, such as using only olives picked directly from the tree rather than the ground but has looser origination requirements.

2. Varieties - There are more than 880 varieties of olives. Increasingly, many smaller producers are offering single variety olive oils so that consumers can become familiar with the particular type and pair it with the appropriate foods. Instead of buying a bottle of "all-purpose" olive oil - Italians and many other Mediterranean connoisseurs now recommend pairing each dish with the olive oil that is best suited to it, to enhance the flavor and dining experience. Just as you pair wine with various dishes, so can you pair olive oil. 



3. Polyphenols - Important for your Health - It is the variety of olive, or olives in an oil which will determine it's overall polyphenol level. The antioxidant properties of polyphenols have been widely studied, and they are known to assist in the prevention of degenerative diseases. You can discover the strength of the polyphenols in an olive oil at home by taking a sip and then slurping it back. As you make the slurping noise, the oil will coat your throat. After a few minutes, you should feel a burn. The stronger the burn, the higher the amount of polyphenols in the oil. 


4. Cold Pressing  - Extra virgin olive oil should be  made using a process called “cold-pressed.”  “Cold” means that the olives being kept no higher than 81.9 °F, and “pressed” refers to the method of extraction. This method indicates that no heat or chemical additives were used to extract the oil from the olives, which can alter and destroy the flavors and aromas of the olive oil. This way,  the olive oil also retains its full nutritional value. "First cold-pressed" means that the olive juice was obtained from literally the first pressing of the olives. They offer the most nutritional value.





5. Filtration - Many purists prefer the flavor and quality of "unfiltered" olive oil, but some are turned off by the sediment found at the bottoms of unfiltered EVOO bottles. For this reason, many farmers are using a "natural filtration" method which involves placing the oil in cisterns and switching it from tank to tank once a month and allowing the sediment to filter out naturally. This time consuming process, maintains the integrity of the oil without the undesired sediment. 


Here are some of my favorite oils:

Alto Crotonese from Crotone


Olearia San Giorgio - Ottobratico from Calabria


Arianna Trading Company Single Variety Organic Greek Oils



Siculum Sicilian Monte Iblei

 A great recipe to showcase quality olive oil from The Italian Diabetes Cookbook.


Tuscan Crudités with Olive Oil Dip/Pinzimonio

This appetizer is representative of the soul of the Tuscan kitchen, which glorifies the best, ripest, and most beautiful produce by pairing it with fresh, local olive oil. The word pinzimonio is a combination of two Italian words: pinze, meaning tweezers, and matrimonio, meaning marriage. The terms refer to the romantic act of pinching the fresh, new vegetables between your fingers and “marrying them” in the fruity, local, seasoned oil, which is always first cold pressed. If possible, use Sicilian sea salt, Tuscan olive oil, and freshly ground Tellichery black pepper in this recipe.

Serves: 4
Serving Size: Approximately 1 cup vegetables
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 0 minutes

1 radicchio, rinsed, damaged outer leaves removed, and cut in half lengthwise
1/4 cup fresh cherry tomatoes
1 fennel bulb, rinsed, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise
4 radishes, rinsed
4 slender carrots, peeled, trimmed, and quartered lengthwise
2 red bell peppers, rinse, trimmed, seeded, and sliced into 1/4-inch strips lengthwise
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (preferably first cold pressed)
1/8 teaspoon unrefined sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1.     Arrange all the vegetables attractively on a platter, leaving a hole in the center.
2.     Pour the olive oil into a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and place in the center of the platter and serve.

Choices/Exchanges
1 Starch, 1 Vegetable, 2 1/2 Fat

Calories                              210
   Calories from Fat            130
Total Fat                            14   g
  Saturated Fat                    2.0  g
  Trans Fat                          0.0  g
Cholesterol                        0     mg
Sodium                                220 mg
Potassium                           660 mg
Total Carbohydrate          20   g
  Dietary Fiber                    6     g
  Sugars                               8     g
Protein                               3     g
Phosphorus                         85 mg

Italian Living Tradition:
If you’re lucky enough to have any vegetables leftover after serving this attractive, healthful appetizer, dice them and incorporate them into a salad or minestrone.


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