Getting to Know the Grapes of Magna Grecia

On WUSA9

In addition to its undeniable yet obscure cultural treasures, the varieties of grapes grown in the rich soil of what was once referred to as Magna Grecia, or “Great Greece,” are begging to be explored. During the 7th and 8th centuries BCE, Greek colonies were established everywhere from the Black Sea to North Africa, and Southern Europe, namely the Southern part of the Italian Peninsula. The colonies, which in Italy are comprised of modern day Campania, Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria, and Sicily, served as important trade and cultural centers of the time. 

The ancient Greeks appreciated wine for its nutritional and culinary value, and it was an important part of their daily lives. Archeologists confirm that the Greeks have been making wine for over 4,000 years. The ancient Greeks knew well the nutritional value of wine as it became an inseparable part of their daily regimen. Wine also played an important role in the evolution of their economy, and it is for that reason that they introduced their techniques to the Italian colonies in around the 8th century BCE, and later in France and Spain. During the "Golden Age" of Greek history (500-300 BCE), Hellenic wine making traditions spread to Northern Europe, the Balkans, and Asia.

At the National Italian American Foundation

A few year's back, the National Italian American Foundation chose my ancestral homeland of Calabria as its region of honor. The director asked Luigi (who is also a Certified Italian Sommelier) to speak about the local wines, and me to discuss its culinary history.  Ever since, we have been passionate about sharing the virtues of Southern Italian grapes whenever possible. Just like the region's many cultural and culinary treasures, its wines also posses much to be proud of.

Gaglioppo grapes in Ciro Marina

The Italian grapes such as Aglianico, Aleatico, Greco, Greco di Tufo, Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia Bianca, Moscato and Moscatelli share Greek roots. Calabria's Gaglioppo, however, is indigenous to the region, which was originally inhabited by the Itali and Oenotri “vine cultivator” indigenous tribes who were named by the Greeks. 

Me at VinItaly in Verona

While each of the wines of Magna Grecia offers its own unique flavor and pairing possibilities, for the purpose of this post, I'll focus on the Aglianico, which is emblematic of Luigi's Basilicata and the Gaglioppo from Calabria. The Italian word Aglianico, comes from the Greek word Ellenica, which means "Greek." Now produced predominately in Campania and Basilicata as well as in Molise and Puglia, the Aglianico vines originated in Greece. Many sources reveal that it is a black grape which produces a "dry, red wine". Few, however, state that enologists believe that Aglianico has the longest consumer history of any wine! 

Both Aglianico and Gaglioppo wines are often dismissed as "Barolos of the South", because of their elegance, but that statement strips these important wines of both the prominence of their own terroir, and their impressive histories. Aglianico, for example was enjoyed by Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans alike. The Aglianico grown in Basilicata's vineyards are at the base of the dormant Vulture mountain, where ash deposits have enriched the soil over time, giving it a uniquely complex body with a rich, ruby red fruit flavor.

Luigi's Capretto al forno

Luigi pairs Aglianico with the traditional dishes from Basilicata such as his Oven Roasted Baby Goat from The Al Tiramisu Restaurant Cookbook, as well as his Laganelle Pasta with Hand-Cut Lamb Ragu at his new restaurant, Aperto. 

Mercantino display at Aperto

He also uses it in his house-made blueberry preserves. Fortunately, Aglianico is becoming increasingly easy to find in the United States. Since it is a full bodied wine, it pairs well with robust dishes. Grilled or stewed beef, goat, lamb, game, organ meats, aged cheeses such as caciocavallo podolico, and pastas with hearty sauces pair well with a mature Aglianico whose tannins balance out the richness of the food. 

Aglianico on Aperto's Wine List

Young Aglianico pairs well with poultry, white meat, and sweet cheeses. It is also used to macerate hardened raisins before adding them into other recipes.  

 The Gaglioppo or "blackberry" grapes planted in antiquity,and is produced in Calabria. The wines that hail from this low-lying, arid D.O.C (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), yield the most powerful and tannic expressions of the grape.  

Calabrian wines at VinItaly

The main area for Gaglioppo production is Ciro Marina, which is located in the province of Crotone, known as Kroton in antiquity. Pythagoras formed a secret society of intellectuals and many other prominent philosophers, doctors, and athletes lived there as well. 

The prestigious Ippolito brand

Classical Greek sculptors would employ the local women, known for their beauty, when choosing models for their statues. And the local wine was so coveted that the Greeks would take it home to award to the Olympic champions who would offer it as a toast to the gods. 

Making Millecosedde and pairing it with Gaglioppo

Gaglioppo is enjoying increasing popularity both in Italy and abroad. Much more than a "red wine grape that grows well in drought conditions," as it is often described, the "blackberry grape" could easily be renamed "the grape of the gods". 100% Gaglioppo pairs well with hearty soups, spicy sauces, grilled and roasted meats, and a full meal.

 

Last January, Luigi and I featured it with Millecosedde, a traditional Calabrian Minestrone from my Italian Diabetes Cookbook for National Soup Month in the United States, and New Year's in Italy...press the arrow on the image above to watch the video.

Luigi with Gravello

  
Recently Librandi's Gravello 2014, a blend of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, which Luigi serves at Al Tiramisu, won the coveted Gambero Rosso "tre bicchiere" award for excellence.  Also called a "Super Calabrian", the Gravello pairs well with grilled meats, game, rich sauces and fillet of beef.

In April, I was asked by the Italian Cultural Institute in LA to create a discussion about Calabria and its neighboring regions.  In addition to the tourist attractions, I discussed the wine and cultural heritage of the area in the podcast above.  Rich and complex, yet light and fruity, the wines of southern Italy offer as much delicious variety as their breathtaking landscapes do. September is wine season in the United States, and the perfect time to try these luscious vintages.  Salute!