Sunday, April 30, 2017

The Face of Syrian Cuisine and Culture

"Let us plant peace and love in the liver of earth" was a famous quote from the ancient god of thunder, worshipped by the Phoenicians and many others in the land that is now known as Syria. For 5,000 years, the symbol of wheat has represented peace, hope, and reconstruction in the ancient land which I have mentioned in previous posts is also home to the world's first alphabet, Ugarit, as well as the world's first song, and many other culturally significant contributions to humanity. Agrarian culture has formed the foundation of modern culinary culture in Syria, just as it has in Italy, Greece, Egypt, and other Mediterranean cultures.  On the occasion of the last day of Arab American Heritage Month, I decided to share some little known facts about a cuisine, culture, and people that I have come to love. 

Taking inspiration from his roots, my dear Syrian friend Majed Al Sabagh, has founded and is the acting president of The Syrian Culinary Guild in order to provide an accurate lens into the rich heritage of his homeland, and to document the notable achievements of Syrian chefs around the globe.  I met Majed many years ago in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates when I was invited to the International Book Fair.  His role was to coordinate and introduce the chefs visiting from other countries. As an accomplished chef to the royal family, host of a popular television show, cookbook author, WACS approved judge, and VP of the Emirates Culinary Guild, Majed enjoys using his influence to promote the best kept, and tastiest secrets of Syria.



In just a few short years, despite his busy schedule, I am pleased to witness the progress that Majed has made in promoting not only Syrian cuisine, but the cuisine of the Emirates, and good culinary practices around the globe. I remember one of our earliest discussions, when Majed mentioned wanting to promote the cuisine and culture on a larger scale. I also remember quite vividly the way things were when I used to visit Sharjah. In the beginning, my cooking stage audiences would be mostly filled with private cooks whose job was to cook for their clients. Some of them, who also shared the role of taking care of the children, would ask if I could translate my cookbooks into their language, so that they could use them.  There were very few mothers or children in sight.

Nowadays, however, there is a change. After following Majed's efforts on television, social media, and in his role as a Corporate chef for the Sharjah Ladies Club, there is a new enthusiasm for the culinary arts in the city. Majed has shared the joy of cooking, and the importance of food in our communities with the utmost care and diligence, and it has paid off. With the opening of his new Chef International Centre- a school for hospitality education and training, he has transformed the local opinion of cooking from a chore to a passion, which is one of the many reasons that we share a strong synergy.  The belief that food is the foundation that our lives, families, communities, and economies are built upon is one that both of our ancestors share, and Majed is doing an amazing job of using this core philosophy to inspire others.



Honestly speaking, as an immigrant to another country, most people would be satisfied with earning a decent living and providing for their family. As many of you know, that can be challenging enough today. But Majed's mission has always been greater, and I believe that it is his honesty, passion, and dedication to his cause that has enabled him to achieve so much in such a short time. He is a great inspiration to me and all of those who are blessed with the ability to work with him and learn from him.  

Over the years, Majed has taught me a great deal about Syrian cuisine. On my last evening in Dubai, for example, he introduced me to a wonderful Syrian restaurant called Albait Alshami.  The "light" dinner of 15 perfectly executed dishes required 3 tables to be pulled together in order to accomodate them. The waiters shuffling to set the stage for our meal were a perfect metaphor for the level of hospitality that Majed has always demonstrated to me whenever I visit. And after being introduced to his family, I know that those threads of generosity run deep into his beautiful mountain village of As Suwayda, Syria.  When we were finishing the meal, the chef came to ask us if we "wished" for anything else. My response that my only wish was to live longer so that I could enjoy more of his amazing food! 

Majed has been my top resource for all things Syrian since we have known each other - and that is no small feat! Much of my Middle Eastern culinary research highlights the Phoenicians and the Ummayads, an empire and a caliphate who shaped the way the people of the Mediterranean, and in many senses the world at large, eat and live.  The Ummayads, for example, were a 7th century- caliphate who introduced the concept of city-dwelling. Can you immagine a world without modern cities? They also developed breathtaking styles of art, architecture, and dining that were emulated all the way from Damascus to Spain and became the backbone of Andalusian grandeur.  The notion of palatial cuisine was elevated with the Ummayads and there are many 13th century manuscripts which reveal some of their recipes. Majed spends as much time researching as I do, and one of our favorite past times is discussing the latest archeological discoveries of the area and how they relate to food. For more information about the Cuisine and Culture of the Arab World, watch my Library of Congress podcast here:



Despite the fact that the UAE is Majed's adopted homeland, he is also an excellent ambassador for its cuisine, and he travels everywhere from Italy to China to promote it. When he first arrived in Dubai, there was not a strong interest in promoting the local cuisine. Multi-national investors were more interested in showcasing trendy, international flavors that were unique to the region than the food of its forefathers. Over the years, Majed and his colleagues have worked diligently to document the cuisine and culture of the Emirates, to promote it in the world, and preserve it for future generations. This is one of the many characteristics that distinguishes Majed as a chef. He is one of the few who can delve into the cuisine of another culture, and respectfully learn its virtues, and present it to the world with precision, accuracy, and dignity.

I strongly suggest following Majed's pursuits in order to learn more about the cuisine and culture of Syria, The United Arab Emirates, and the world. For the Arabic -speakers among you, I highly recommend his book and website. And, if you are in the mood for some great dishes from the region...here are a few of my favorites......




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