Some Italian holiday traditions are too sweet to pass up! These edible centerpieces can be as fun to make as they are to eat. I enjoyed sharing these family favorites with my students at the Pizza University & Culinary Arts Center so much that I decided to post them for everyone to savor as well. This holiday and #NationalBakeDay, try them out for yourself....
Cannoli
Cannoli are by far the most widely appreciated of all Sicilian desserts. When I was growing up, I was always told that Santa preferred cannoli to cookies and that if I wanted my list to be checked twice, I'd better leave those for him 😉, instead of cookies. Unless of course, they were Nonna Angela's fig cookies (recipe below).
They are one of the many recipes that owe their survival to the convents. Many traditional Sicilian sweets were once prepared by the women of the harem in the town of Caltanissetta during Arab rule (827-1091CE). When the Normans forced the Arabs out of Sicily, many Muslim women took refuge in the convents, and introduced their pastry making techniques to the Nuns.
Over the years the recipe took many turns and incorporated local Sicilian ingredients like local sheep’s milk ricotta, lard, and Marsala – as well as imports from the new world – such as chocolate-and the fantastic pistachios of Bronte…which once grew only in Afghanistan. This recipe is my favorite – one that combines simple, good quality ingredients that are readily available.
While they seem intimidating to make at first, a few special techniques (that unfortunately get left out of many recipes) make them easy to execute. Keep in mind that you will need cannoli molds, a rolling pin, a pastry bag or a plastic bag with the tip cut-off, a thermometer, a 3 ½-inch round cookie cutter, and a fine mesh strainer for best results. You will also need a minimum of three hours to drain the ricotta filling, and if the ricotta you are using is watery, you will need to drain it overnight before beginning the recipe.
Makes approximately 20
Ingredients
For the Shells:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 ounce unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup cold water
For the Filling:
1/2 cup sugar
1 ounce cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 1/3 cup fresh whole milk ricotta
To Fry:
Approx. 6 cups refined coconut oil
1 egg white, well beaten (about 1 ounce; 25g)
To Serve (Optional):
½ cup finely chopped dark chocolate
½ cup finely chopped pistachios
Preparation
For the Dough: In the bowl of a food processor, or in a standing mixer, combine flour, butter, salt, and cinnamon.
Pulse until the butter disappears, about 30 seconds, then add water and continue processing until dough rides up on the blade and forms a silky but stringy dough. This will take about 2 minutes, but the timing will vary depending on the size and horsepower of the food processor.
Transfer to a lightly greased bowl, cover tightly, and allow the dough to relax at least 2 hours at room temperature, or up to 24 hours at cool room temperature.
For the Filling: In a 3-quart stainless steel saucier, whisk sugar, cornstarch, and salt until well combined. Whisk in the egg, yolk, and milk. Once smooth, place over medium-low heat and cook, whisking constantly but gently until warm to the touch, about 3 minutes.
Increase heat to medium and cook, now whisking quite vigorously, until the custard begins to thicken, about 2 minute more. The custard may seem lumpy, almost like cottage cheese, but continue whisking until emulsified and silky smooth.
When the thick custard begins to bubble, set a timer and continue cooking and whisking for exactly 1 minute. Off heat, stir in vanilla extract, lemon zest, and cinnamon.
Pour the custard onto a large plate or pie dish to form a thin layer (this will speed the cooling process), then press a sheet of plastic against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until thick and cool, about 1 hour, or to a temperature of 68°F.
Alternatively, refrigerate the custard up to one week and then return to room temperature until warmed to approximately 68°F.
In the bowl, beat the cool pudding until creamy and smooth (this can also be done by hand using a flexible spatula, although it may seem impossible at first). Fold in the ricotta. Refrigerate in an airtight container until needed, up to 3 days.
Preparing the Dough: Turn the soft dough onto a well-floured surface and, using as much flour as needed to prevent sticking, roll until approximately 1/16 inch thick. Brush excess flour from the dough, then lightly brush the surface with egg white. Carefully fold the dough in half, then dust with more flour and continue rolling to 1/16 inch. Gently lift the dough to make sure it hasn't stuck, then cut into into 3 1/2-inch rounds; re-roll the scraps and cut as before.
Place a cannoli form at the top end of a circle and roll the dough over the form.
Use the egg white to seal the edges, and holding the form in one hand, use the other to flair the ends of the dough slightly. Repeat with remaining dough circles and cannoli forms.
When oil has reached 380F degrees, use tongs to carefully lower 3 shells in at a time.
Allow the shells to fry for approximately 1 minute – or until puffed and golden. Do not allow shells to scorch.
Using tongs, or a metal strainer, carefully remove shells from oil (tubes will be full of oil, turn them slightly to release oil before lifting out of pan or fryer) and place onto a plate lined with paper towels.
Double check temperature, and increase heat if necessary, ensuring that oil is 380F degrees. Continue frying cannoli shells in the same fashion.
Cool the cannoli shells with forms still attached for a few minutes. When cool enough to handle, slide forms off of cannoli shells and re-use with remaining dough.
Once you have used all of the dough circles, gather the scraps of dough and re-roll to /16-inch thickness. Make additional circles and continue frying until you have used all of the dough. Allow shells to cool.
Place filling in a pastry bag with a 1-inch nozzle attachment or in a large plastic bag with the edge snipped off.
Place the nozzle or edge of pastry bag in the cannoli shell and squeeze to fill.
Place the pistachio shells on a plate and dip the cannoli ends in them.
Place on a platter. Place ½ cup of powdered sugar in a fine mesh sieve and tap over the cannoli to garnish.
Refrigerate until serving. If you like crispy cannoli, be sure to fill them just before serving.
Preparing the Oil:Melt the refined coconut oil (or other solid fat) in a 5-quart stainless steel or enameled Dutch oven. Clip on digital thermometer and warm to 380°F over medium heat. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with 3 layers of paper towels, and form the shells.
Petrali/Fig Cookies from Calabria
These cookies were the single most important culinary tradition of Christmas in my household. Each year, I remember my grandmother meticulously following the same recipe that her mother passed down to her.
Making the cookies was a three-part project. The first step was to make the the delicious, citrus infused dough. Next, came the traditional filling of figs, nuts, honey, citrus zest enriched with my great grandmother's addition of dates, citrus, cherries, and cinnamon. Last, the dough was rolled out and the cookies got filled and baked.
Makes approximately 4 dozen cookies
For the Dough:
1 cup sugar
1 cup butter, at room temperature
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. vanilla
4 cups flour
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice, or as needed plus orange zest
For the Filling:
1 lb. dried organic white figs*
1 lb. dried pitted dates
1 whole orange, zested and juiced
1 whole lemon, zested and juiced
1 lb. walnuts or almonds
1 cup honey
1 small jar sour cherries, drained
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 cup sugar
For the Glaze:
2 TBSP. butter
1 cup confectioners sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
juice and zest of 1/2 orange
sprinkles
Preparation:
*If organic white figs can't be found - substitute any dried figs. Place in a saucepan and cover with water. Simmer, on low heat, until soft, and cut off stems.
1. Drain figs and place in food processor with dates Add in orange and lemon zest and juice and process. Add in walnuts, honey, cherries, cinnamon, and sugar. Process until combined.
2. Roll out the dough until approximately 1'8 - inch thick (like pie dough).
3. Make strips 4-inches in length across the diameter of the dough (same process as ravioli).
Place a 1 1/2-inch strip of filling in a log across the middle of the strip.
4. Roll up the dough strip to cover the filling. Cut cookies with a pizza cutter or knife into 1-inch diagonal pieces.
5. Preheat oven to 350F degrees. Place cookies onto well-greased or lined baking sheet leaving 1/2-inch in between each one. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lightly golden.
6. Remove from oven and allow to cool. In the meantime, make a glaze by whisking butter and powdered sugar together. Add in vanilla and orange zest and stir well to incorporate.
7. Add in orange juice, bit by bit, until you achieve a glaze consistency. Spoon glaze over cookies as soon as they are cool and top with sprinkles.
Struffoli/Pignolata/Sweet Fried Gnocchi with Honey Syrup
Struffoli are a popular sweet served during Christmas and Carnevale times. Made from an enhanced egg-pasta dough which is shaped into little balls and deep fried, this treat goes by different names in different regions. In Calabria they are called Pignolata and some places call them Cicerata because of their similarity to chickpeas. They are the crowning glory of many Italian and Italian-American holiday tables.
Serves: 10
Ingredients
3 cups flour
4 eggs
1 lemon, zested
1 orange, zested
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons limoncello
Serves: 10
Ingredients
3 cups flour
4 eggs
1 lemon, zested
1 orange, zested
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons limoncello
Coconut or sunflower oil, for frying
3/4 cups honey
3/4 cups honey
¾ cup sugar
Sprinkles, for garnish
Directions:
In a mixing bowl, place flour, eggs, zest of 1 lemon, orange zest, salt, and limoncello and mix well to form a firm dough, 8 to 10 minutes. Place in the refrigerator and allow to rest 30 minutes.
Remove from the refrigerator and cut golf ball-sized pieces of dough from the main batch. Roll each ball into a 1/2-inch thick dowel (rope) and cut each dowel into 1/2-inch pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and continue until finished with all dough.
In a 12 to 14-inch skillet with at least 6-inch sides, heat the oil to 375 degrees F. Drop enough balls in to cover about half of the surface of frying oil and cook until dark golden brown. Use a slotted spoon to turn them regularly, and expect them to puff up while cooking. As they finish, remove them to a tray covered with paper towels, and drain well. This should take at least 5 batches.
When all of the struffoli are cooked, heat the honey, lemon juice, and zest together in a wide 6 to 8 quart saucepan until quite warm, about 150 degrees F, and substantially thinner. Add struffoli to honey and stir carefully until well coated. Remove from heat and allow to cool 5 minutes in the pan, stirring regularly. Pour out into a large serving tray in the form of either a pyramid or a ring mold. Sprinkle with sprinkles and serve.
Sicilian Chocolate and Clove Cookies
These cookies are known as tetu in dialect and are also served when remembering deceased loved ones on All Soul’s Day. The base recipe has been adapted from a version by Domenica Interlicchia, who was my mother’s best friend growing up. In my Calabrian family we make a similar version and frosted them with a white glaze. These cookies freeze well.
Makes: Approximately 3 dozen
Ingredients:
Cookies:
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
3/4 cups sugar
2 eggs
½ cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 ½ cups flour
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon cloves
1 teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup cocoa
½ cup walnuts, chopped
½ cup raisins
½ cup chocolate chips
Frosting:
1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons cocoa
¼ teaspoon melted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons strong coffee or espresso
¼ cup chopped walnuts, or sprinkles, for garnish
Preparation:
Preheat oven to 350F degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Mix all cookie ingredients together.
Roll cookies into equal-sized 1-inch balls and place ¼-inch apart on cookie sheet.
Bake for 8-10 minutes.
Mix all frosting ingredients together.
Using a butter knife, spread frosting on the tops of cooled cookies.
Sprinkle tops of cookies with walnuts or sprinkles. Allow to cool.
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