Recently one of my favorite creative outlets has been having olive-oil pairing dinners where I match specific olive oils to my dishes. This gives me a great chance to show off the nuances of the various mono-cultivars (single-variety) olive oils as well as blends. Best of all, I get to preach about the flavor -profiles, health benefits, and features of my top ingredient.
Last year my extremely talented sous-chef Paul Kolze asked me to cook with him at one of his "Grub Clubs" - a monthly event where he treats friends, colleagues, and loved ones to a themed meal. After hearing my olive oil discussion too many times to count, he decided that it would be a great theme for a January dinner. We decided on January 7 - which happened to be Epiphany and the anniversary of my Nonna Angela's passing. Then Paul and I began our mission of creating a menu that would please both of our palates - not an easy task since I'm a veggie-loving flexitarian and Paul is a meat-lover who has diagnosed himself with an "allergy to vegetables!"
Nocellara del Belice has truly become one of my "go to" olive oils - and those of you who have seen my olive oil segments on television and my lectures and guided tastings at Pizza University & Culinary Arts Center and the International Trade Center with Dr. Sam Pappas as well as in Morocco and Italy may remember me mentioning it. I even used it to cook my family's Christmas Eve meal this year. If you are looking for Geraci oils, check them out at Eataly in person or online. The family-owned company also just released a line of "erbolio" which are herb and citrus infused oils. Normally, I shy away from the infusions because I want people to get used to the characteristics of each olive cultivar before adding in unnecessary flavors, but I knew that if Geraci did flavored-oil, it would be an amazing and honest product.
If you would like to try some of the recipes yourself, here they are:
This recipe is from my Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook. The Romans named Provence Provincia Romana,or The Roman Province, in Latin when Nice was their capital in the first century CE. The Romans left both vineyards and olive groves as well as the Latin language during their time there. As a result, Provencal cuisine developed strong Italian undertones, as this recipe demonstrates. The word tapenade comes from the ancient Provencal word tapena which means “to cover.” This citrusy olive paste makes the perfect topping for bread, crudités, vegetables, pasta, fish, and chicken.
3/4 cup (96 g) pitted black olives (picholine or kalamata work well)
3 teaspoons (26 g) capers, rinsed and drained well
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/3 cup (78 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
(I used Geraci's Mandarin-Infused Olive Oil)
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine the olives, capers, and garlic in the food processor. Remove the lid of the spout and slowly pour in the olive oil, a little at a time, while pulsing the food processor on and off. The tapenade should have a paste-like consistency, but should not be completely smooth. Stir in the lemon zest and season with freshly ground pepper to taste.
Yield: about 1 cup
Mediterranean Tradition
Reinventing leftovers into culinary creations is an art form so integral to the region, that it is taken for granted. Leftover roasted chicken or fish and raw vegetables taste great dipped into tapenade. I also like to stir it into blanched green beans that I toss with cucumbers, chickpeas, and cherry tomatoes for a fun and flavorful salad.
We served the tapenade with an Olive Oil Challah that Paul made. This is the recipe he used:
Yield:1 loaf
Time: 3 hours 40 minutes
Ingredients
½ cup/118 milliliters fresh orange juice (from about 2 medium oranges)
2 ¼ teaspoons/1/4 ounce/7 grams active dry yeast (1 packet)
⅓ cup/78 milliliters olive oil
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
3 tablespoons/37 grams sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ to ½ teaspoon grated orange or lemon zest, to taste (optional)
3 to 3 ½ cups/360 to 420 grams bread flour, plus more for kneading dough
Preparation
Preparation
- In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine orange juice and 1 tablespoon water. Sprinkle yeast over top and let sit until frothy, about 5 minutes.
- Add oil, 2 eggs, 1 yolk, sugar, salt and zest, if using, and beat with a dough hook until just combined. Add in flour, 1 cup/125 grams at a time, until dough comes together into a sticky mass. You may or may not use all of the flour, so at the end, add it gradually. The dough should come away from the sides of the bowl but not be at all stiff. You’re looking for a slightly sticky, soft dough.
- Transfer dough to floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Transfer to an oiled bowl and turn the dough over. Cover bowl with a clean dish towel and let rise in a draft-free place until doubled, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Press down dough to expel all the air, cover bowl and let rise for another 45 minutes.
- In a small bowl, make egg wash by combining the remaining 1 egg with 1 teaspoon water. To make a classic braided challah, cut dough into three equal pieces and roll them each into ropes 12 inches long. Or, to make a braided round loaf, cut dough into six equal pieces and roll them each into thinner ropes 12 inches long.
- Braid the challah: If you are making a classic challah with 3 ropes, just braid them into a loaf, tucking the edges under. To braid it into a round loaf, first lay 3 ropes parallel to one another on the work surface, leaving 1 inch between them. Take one of the remaining ropes and hold it perpendicular to the 3 ropes, across the center. Weave that rope through the 3 ropes, as if you were creating a lattice for a pie; leave the edges free. Repeat with remaining 2 ropes. The resulting shape should look somewhat like a pound or number sign, but with a woven center. Then, starting from the ends of the 3 ropes closest to you, braid the loose edges of the ropes and pinch the ends together. Repeat with the remaining ends of the ropes; you should end up with a lattice in the middle with 4 braids radiating out from it. Tuck the braids underneath the lattice to create a round loaf, place on a small rimmed baking sheet, then brush with egg wash. Let rise uncovered for 45 minutes.
- Meanwhile, heat oven to 375 degrees with a rack in the middle. Gently brush a second coat of egg wash on the dough, then bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until challah is a deep rich brown and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. (When it starts smelling like freshly baked bread, start checking.) Cool on a wire rack before serving.
This recipe is from my Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook. The incredibly beautiful Mediterranean island of Corsica was ruled by Italy until the mid 19th century, when it became part of France. By combining both Italian and French country style cooking with local specialties – Corsica developed a cuisine as awe inspiring as its scenery. Traditionally this recipe is made with fresh langoustines which are a variety of shellfish that resemble miniature lobsters. In this recipe, colossal or jumbo shrimp can be substituted.
Serves: 8
Serving Size: Approximately 1/3 cup chickpea puree & 3 shrimp
Ingredients:
2 1/2 cups cooked, reduced sodium chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided (I used Geraci's Rosemary-Infused Olive Oil)
1 1/2 pounds prawns or colossal or jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 teaspoons freshly chopped rosemary
Dash of crushed red chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preparation:
1. Place chickpeas, lemon juice, garlic, and 2 tablespoons olive oil in food processor.
2. Add 1/4 cup water, or enough needed to make a smooth puree.
3. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium high heat.
4. Add prawns or shrimp, rosemary, chili flakes, salt and pepper.
5. Cook, uncovered, for approximately 2 minutes per side or until prawns or shrimp turn pink.
6. Spoon chickpea cream onto small plates evenly and flatten with the back of a spoon.
7. Place prawns or shrimp on the top of the plate and serve immediately.
Healthy Living Tradition: I buy chickpeas in large quantities and use them to make delicious recipes all week long. I usually make one batch of this puree to serve one night, then add sesame paste to another batch to make hommus which I can keep refrigerated and use all week long, and keep plain cooked chickpeas in a plastic container in the refrigerator to add to salads, soups, and stews. This way, I get extra fiber and protein without having to do a lot of work or planning.
This recipe is from my Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook. Years ago, the idea of eating mashed potatoes without butter and cream would make me cringe. Once I tasted this delicious Tunisian recipe, however, I discovered an even tastier, healthful way of enjoying potatoes. The combination of buttery golden baby potatoes with citrusy lemon zest and juice sprinkled with flowery cilantro and zippy dill provide intense flavor and nutrients.
Serves: 6
Serving Size 1/2 cup
Ingredients:
10 ( 1 pound) baby golden potatoes, scrubbed and quartered
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (I used Geraci's Lemon-Infused Olive Oil)
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup cilantro, finely chopped
1/4 cup dill, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preparation:
1. Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with water.
2. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium, and cook uncovered for 10-15 minutes, or until tender.
3. Drain, add lemon juice, and olive oil, and begin mashing by hand or with an electric mixer.
4. When mixture is smooth and creamy, stir in lemon zest, cilantro, dill, salt, and pepper.
5. Serve warm.
Healthy Living Tradition: What potato skins lack in appearance, they make up for in nutrition. Many conventionally grown potatoes contain high levels of chemical residues. Choose organic varieties whenever possible to ensure optimal health benefits.
This dish was a creation of Paul's which he prepared sous vide style. The result was one of the most tender, delicious, and flavorful pieces of meat I have ever tasted. It has inspired me to begin using the sous vide method more often. Paul used this recipe: https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/sous-vide-steak and I drizzled the top with Geraci's Rosemary oil.
VG /GF
SERVES: 4 | SERVING SIZE: APPROXIMATELY 1/2 CUP
PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES | COOK TIME: 10–15 MINUTES
From my soon-to-be released 2nd edition of the Mediterranean Diabetes Cookbook. This dish is so simple that it’s almost a crime to call it a recipe, but I included it in this book because it’s easy, healthful, and tasty. Whenever I make this recipe, it’s like popcorn—I can’t seem to stop eating it. I was delighted to find a very similar version on the menu in a Chinese restaurant once. Despite the cultural difference (and that I was eating it with chopsticks!), the fresh, spicy flavors quickly transported me back to my Calabrian roots. Note that this garlic, oil, and crushed red pepper mixture is what is used to make spaghetti aglio, olio, e peperoncino.
1 1/4 lb broccoli florets, cut into very small pieces
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil ( I used Geraci's DOP Nocellara del Belice Olive Oil)
3 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch crushed red pepper
1/8 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon, halved
Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Add broccoli to a large cookie sheet and toss with olive oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, salt, and pepper.
Toss well to combine, and roast broccoli for 15 minutes or until fork tender and lightly golden.
Serve with lemon on the side (for squeezing juice over the broccoli).
This recipe is from my Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook. While this cake is definitely not diet material, I decided to include it in this chapter for two reasons. First, it shows olive oil’s versatility, and how delicious it can be in desserts. Second, with the combination of oil, almonds, and fruit, this dessert is actually quite nutritious—and when eaten sparingly can fit into a healthful eating plan. Serve with Vin Santo.
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra
(I used Geraci's Orange-Infused Olive Oil)
11/2 cups (188 g) unbleached all-purpose flour, or all-purpose Gluten-Free Baking Mix, or almond flour, plus extra
½ cup (55 g) sliced almonds
2 eggs, separated
2/3 cup (160 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1 cup (200 g) sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon orange blossom water
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
2/3 cup (64 g) almond flour (or finely ground almonds)
1 cup (155 g) pitted cherries
2 tablespoons (16 g) powdered sugar, to serve
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Oil and flour a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan. Line with a 9-inch (23 cm) round of parchment paper. Brush the parchment paper with olive oil and sprinkle with sliced almonds.
In the bowl of a standing mixer or in a large metal bowl using a hand mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.
Combine the orange juice, orange zest, olive oil, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, almond, and orange blossom water in a medium bowl.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and ground almonds. Mix in the orange juice mixture and fold in the cherries. Fold in the egg whites.
Pour into the baking pan and smooth out the top with a spatula. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean and the cake begins to pull away from the sides of the pan, 40 to 45 minutes.
Cool completely. Invert onto a platter, release sides. Remove the parchment paper, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve.
Yield: 9 servings
Mediterranean Tradition
Seasonal fruit cakes are the cornerstone of every traditional home cook’s dessert repertoire in the region. The cherries and almonds could be substituted with figs and walnuts, or blueberries and pecans, depending upon the season.
Olive Oil Gelato
Paul's olive oil gelato is one of the best in the world. Since I was a judge at Gelato Fest DC and an avid gelato connoisseur in Italy, you all know that you can trust my judgement. When Paul assisted in my Mastering Italian Certification Cooking Class Series - he used to make a different gelato each week for the students. They were all amazing, but this is the one that I loved the most.
Paul used Spanish extra-virgin olive oil for this recipe - but it could easily be substituted for your favorite tasting olive oil.
Yield:about 1 1/2 quarts
Ingredients
3 1/2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean, split, or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup sugar
10 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Maldon or other flaky sea salt
Directions
1. Combine the milk and cream in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring just to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat.
2.If using a vanilla bean, scrape the seeds from the bean with a paring knife and add the seeds to the hot milk. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes.
3. Add 3/4 cup of the sugar to the milk and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
4. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185°F on an instant-read thermometer.
5. Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl. Stir in the vanilla extract, if using, and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.
6. Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions, stopping to add the olive oil about halfway through the freezing process. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)
7. Sprinkle a few flakes of Maldon salt and drizzle a stripe or two of olive oil over each serving of gelato.
Olive Oils 101 with Amy Riolo
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