The Goodness of Goat Cheese

August is National Goat Cheese Month!  Luigi and I began gathering our favorite goat meat and cheese recipes when we gave a presentation entitled "Goodness of Goat" for the International Association of Culinary Professionals a few years ago.  First domesticated in Syria in 8,000- 9,000 BCE, goats underwent an evolution that significantly changed their morphology before goat farming was introduced to Europe and then the rest of the
world. 

Nowadays there are over 300 species of goats. Goat's milk has a similar composition to cow's milk, yet it has less lactose and has more elastic fibers - which are important for muscle recovery - making it particularly suitable for athletes in training.  Goat milk has generally around 4% fat, and 3% protein.  Milk, cultured milk, buttermilk, ricotta, feta, yogurt, and yogurt cheese are all made from goat in the Mediterranean region. 

Here are 5 of our favorite goat cheese recipes to celebrate this fun food holiday.... 

 Photo from the What A Girl Eats Blog

Herb and Goat Cheese Vegetable Dip/ 

Pâte de Fromage de Chèvre aux Herbes Fraîches

* Recipe from The Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook by Amy Riolo. Despite its nutritional richness, goat’s milk generally has a lower cheese yield than cow’s milk, and goat cheeses are less suited to aging. Each different breed of goat and the terrain of the pastures they graze in are responsible for a wide variety of different cheese flavors. This mixture is also fantastic to use as a stuffing for grilled portobello mushrooms.

8 ounces (226 g) soft fresh goat cheese (such as Montrachet)
4 tablespoons (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided (preferably unfiltered)
3 tablespoons (45 g) plain yogurt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
Assorted raw vegetables

Combine the goat cheese, oil, and yogurt in a blender or food processor, and blend until smooth. Transfer to small bowl. Mix in the chives, parsley, mint, thyme, and rosemary. Season dip to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until the dip is cold and flavors blend, 3 hours to overnight, and keep chilled until serving. Serve with vegetables.

Yield: 6 servings (about 11/2 cups)

Mediterranean Tradition
In addition to the soft, fresh goat cheese most available in the West, goat milk, which is easier for most people to digest, is used by itself and combined with sheep’s milk to make yogurt, ricotta, feta, manchego, queso cabrales, and many other kinds of cheese in the southern and eastern portions of the Mediterranean.
 

Funghi portobello con formaggio di capra/Portobello Mushrooms with Goat Cheese 

Recipe from The Al Tiramisu Restaurant Cookbook by Luigi Diotaiuti. This impressive, flavorful antipasto is one of a series of plates that we cannot remove from the Al Tiramisu menu without disappointing many longtime customers.
Note that the mushrooms must marinate from 5 hours to overnight and the goat-cheese mixture must set in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Prepare both a day in advance and it will only take about 10 minutes to make this appetizer before you serve it.
 
Serves 4

Ingredients

For the mushrooms
4 Portobello mushrooms (4 to 5-inches wide)
1 1/2 cups extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh thyme
1 tablespoon  chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh sage
4 handfuls of mixed or frisée lettuce, washed and dried
1 recipe Lemon Vinaigrette

For the goat cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces goat cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat leaf Italian parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped  chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped  fresh thyme 
 
Preparation:
For the mushrooms:
Remove the stems from the mushrooms and discard. Clean mushrooms by rubbing the entire surface with a damp towel to remove soil or debris. Turn upside down and scoop out the black part with a spoon and discard.
Place mushrooms in a medium bowl. Add oil, garlic, thyme, rosemary, and sage. Mix well. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let mixture marinate in the refrigerator for at least 5 hours or overnight.
Preheat oven to 375˚F degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet. Remove mushrooms from the refrigerator and place on baking sheet. Bake until tender, 10 minutes.
For the goat cheese (Can be made one day in advance.)
Place olive oil, goat cheese, parsley, chives, and thyme in a medium bowl. Mix well with a wooden spoon to get a uniform mixture. Cover with plastic wrap; place in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
To serve:
Thinly slice the mushrooms and arrange in a fan formation on the plate.
Spoon the goat cheese mixture onto the center of the fanned mushrooms. Garnish with the salad on the side. Drizzle greens with Lemon Vinaigrette.
Italian Cooking Primer
Mushrooms, vegetables, and cheese are the stars of Italian antipasti. Use seasonal ingredients to create appetizers with flavors and textures that you most enjoy. In this recipe, for example, you can use arugula or other types of salad. For the goat cheese, you can substitute gorgonzola or another soft, crumbly cheese with a strong flavor.

Olive, Almond, and Goat Cheese Tapas/Tapas de aceitunas, almendras y queso de cabra

 * Recipe from The Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook by Amy Riolo.  When eaten 15 minutes before a meal, olives and almonds have been proven to slow digestion and help the body to absorb more nutrients in the upcoming meal. When you add goat cheese into the mix, this appetizer becomes a healthful Mediterranean meal in itself! The almonds and olives can be made a week in advance, and the cheese can be made up to 3 days in advance. Serve with toothpicks or cocktail sticks for spearing the cheese and olives.

For the Almonds
1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika
½ teaspoon unrefined sea salt or salt
½ teaspoon cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
13/4 cups (252 g) blanched almonds

For the Marinated Olives
1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh oregano
1 teaspoon fresh parsley
2 cloves garlic, crushed
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch crushed red chili flakes
¼ pound (115 g) cured black olives
¼ pound (115 g) cured green olives

For the Marinated Goat Cheese
5 ounces (140 g) Queso de Murcia, Spanish goat cheese, or any goat cheese
1/3 cup (78 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
1 clove garlic, minced
Handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley
5 sprigs fresh tarragon

To make the almonds, mix together the paprika, salt, cumin, and cayenne in a small bowl.

Heat the olive oil in a large, wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and sauté, stirring constantly, until the almonds begin to turn color and release their aroma, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in salt mixture and allow to cool. Store in a jar or airtight container for up to 1 week.

To make the marinated olives, whisk together the olive oil, oregano, parsley, garlic, black pepper, and red chili flakes.

Place the olives in a medium glass bowl or a plastic storage container. Pour the olive oil mixture over the top, mix well to coat, and cover. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

To make the marinated goat cheese, shape the cheese into small bite-size balls. Mix together the olive oil, lemon juice and zest, peppercorns, garlic, parsley, and tarragon and pour over the cheese in a medium-size glass bowl, or a plastic storage container. Cover and chill for up to 3 days.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Mediterranean Tradition
Hospitality is paramount in all areas of the Mediterranean region, as are impromptu visits. Whenever someone is invited into someone else’s home as a guest, they are immediately given something to eat and drink. Even if the guest says that they aren’t interested, the items will be brought out and placed in front of them in case they change their mind. Not providing food or drink to a guest speaks poorly of the host. To avoid being considered rude, poor, or cheap, people purposely keep special types of appetizers, nibbles, biscuits, and sweets on hand for whomever might drop by. This appetizer trio fits the bill perfectly. 

 Stuzzichini di pasta frolla d’olive con formaggio di capra/Olive Shortbread Biscuits with Goat Cheese

*Recipe from The Al Tiramisu Restaurant Cookbook by Luigi Diotaiuti. This appetizer is a grand slam – it’s beautiful, tastes great, and is highly versatile. Those are just a few reasons why I chose to serve this antipasto at the dinner I created for the James Beard Foundation. My goal for the dinner, which I called “The Beauty of Basilicata,” was to present the traditional ingredients of my homeland , but with a modern, refined twist. Goat cheese and olives are ubiquitous in my region and this recipe elevates those ingredients to new heights.

The tanginess of the goat cheese infuses the biscuits with a flavor that complements the pungency of the olives. But you can mix and match other toppings depending on what you have on hand. Smoked salmon, cured meats, finely chopped vegetables, ricotta, and other types of cheese are all good options. Its versatility makes this antipasto perfect for parties and buffets.

Note that the dough for these biscuits must be refrigerated for at least 4 to 12 hours before baking.

Yields about 16

Ingredients:
¼ cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup sundried or cured black olives, pitted and finely chopped
6 ounces goat cheese
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh, flat-leaf Italian parsley
Salt

Preparation:
In a medium bowl, or the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, flour, and olives.

Blend well until all ingredients are incorporated and dough is uniform. This may take a few minutes, especially if mixing by hand. Continue to work until all the ingredients come together completely.

Place a large sheet of wax or parchment paper on a work surface. Transfer the dough onto the wax or parchment paper and form a 2 ½ - inch - diameter log. Wrap the log in a piece of wax or parchment paper, twisting the ends to close. Refrigerate and chill for at least 4 hours to overnight. Remove dough from refrigerator. Preheat oven to 375˚F.

Line a baking sheet with silicone liners or parchment paper. Unwrap the dough and cut into ¼-inch thick slices; you should get about 16.

Place the slices on the prepared baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes or until slightly golden. Remove biscuits from oven and let cool.

In a medium bowl,  mix goat cheese, olive oil, thyme, chives, and parsley. Add salt to taste.

Place mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch fluted tip or in a plastic bag with one of the corners snipped off to make a ½-inch opening.

Top biscuits with cheese filling and serve.

Italian Cooking Primer

Goat cheese and herbs has long been a match made in heaven. Herbs once served a practical function in cheese making, aside from adding their distinctive flavors to goat cheese. The edges of finished cheese used to get coated with the particular herb that the goat had grazed on. These days, few artisan cheese producers use this technique, but the pairing of goat cheese with herbs will never go out of style.